Hydrating cosmetic active : OSMOLYA®, a new approach to skin hydration

Skin hydration is a central concern in cosmetics.

And yet, needs are evolving: today, hydrating the skin no longer simply means supplying water to the surface, but also acting at the heart of the cells to enhance their function.

Developed by Laboratoires Expanscience, OSMOLYA® is based on an advanced scientific approach: optimizing cellular osmoregulation.

OSMOLYA®, a natural-origin & bio-inspired cosmetic active ingredient

OSMOLYA® is derived from Iresine weberbaueri, a Peruvian plant also known as flor blanca, renowned for its ability to thrive in extreme environmental conditions thanks to its highly efficient internal water management.
This hydrating active ingredient is rich in and standardized in:

  • Betaine (≥13%), key natural osmolyte involved in water retention
  • Polyphenols (≥6%), known for their antioxidant properties
iresine weberbaueri

An innovation based on cellular osmoregulation

concept d'OSMOLYA®

What is osmoregulation ?

Osmoregulation is the ability of cells to maintain their water balance despite changes in their surrounding environment.
It is an essential biological mechanism that helps preserve cellular integrity, maintain optimal hydration levels, and strengthen the skin’s resilience against external stressors and environmental aggressions.

OSMOLYA®'s mode of action

OSMOLYA® acts on multiple levels to support skin hydration and resilience:
•    Activates the osmotic stress response (gène NFAT5)1
•    Increases the expression of osmolyte transporters (TAUT, SMIT, BGT1)2
•    Enhances skin barrier function2
•    Réduit les dommages cellulaires induits par le stress osmotique, en diminuant significativement l’inflammation et le stress oxydatif1 


1 Tested in-vitro on keratinocytes, OSMOLYA® 0,6% vs control
2 Tested ex-vivo on skin explants, OSMOLYA® 2% vs placebo

femme peau hydratée

Acting at the cellular level for dehydrated skin

Dehydrated skin lacks water and requires care formulated with active ingredients capable of acting deep within the skin.
OSMOLYA® meets these needs by directly optimizing water management at the cellular level.
It is an ideal cosmetic moisturizing active ingredient for skincare products designed for dehydrated skin.
 

Clinically proven efficacy

The efficacy of OSMOLYA® has been demonstrated in a double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study conducted on volunteers with dry skin:
•    Immediate effect, with improved skin hydration observed as early as 1 hour after application
•    Long-lasting effect over time, confirmed after 28 days
•    Reduction in skin dryness, flaking, and roughness
•    Increased stratum corneum thickness, measured by Raman spectroscopy, a non-destructive chemical analysis technique used to identify the molecules that make up the skin.
Volunteers also confirmed these benefits, reporting more hydrated skin within just 3 days, with results maintained and confirmed after 28 days.

résultats OSMOLYA®
femme avec cheveux bouclés

And just as effective for hair !

OSMOLYA® also acts on the hair fibers :
•    Deep hair hydration, demonstrated through low-field NMR (Nuclear Magnetic Resonance) analysis, a physical analytical technique used to observe the molecular structure of materials at the atomic level.1
•    Strengthening of the hair fiber for stronger, more resilient hair.2
•    Reduction of frizz and improved curl definition on textured hair.3
A versatile active ingredient for both skin and hair care applications!

1Ex-vivo study vs placebo, OSMOLYA 2% on 12 natural & textured hair strands (2B et 4A).
2Ex-vivo study vs placebo, OSMOLYA 3% on 48 damaged hair strands.
3Ex-vivo study vs placebo, OSMOLYA 2% on 15 natural & textured hair strands (3A).

An innovative, water-soluble and certified active ingredient !

OSMOLYA® complies with COSMOS and NATRUE standards:
•    Natural origin
•    Environmentally friendly manufacturing processes

It is fully aligned with Expanscience’s CSR strategy, which aims to develop active ingredients that contribute to consumer well-being while drawing ever greater inspiration from nature and living systems.
 

 

Discover OSMOLYA®'s page

 

FAQ – Hydrating cosmetic active ingredients

What are hydrating active ingredients?

There are different types of moisturizing active ingredients, including humectants (such as hyaluronic acid), emollients (such as plant butters and oils), occlusives (such as plant waxes), as well as innovative plant-derived active ingredients like OSMOLYA®.

Which active ingredients are recommended for dehydrated skin?

Active ingredients that can stimulate the skin’s natural hydration mechanisms, such as OSMOLYA®, are particularly recommended for dehydrated skin.

 

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